[78-L] editing 78 files

[Steve Williams]

Hi Denny.  Diamond is the material, Conical or elliptical is the point
profile or shape.  Elliptical works best for records in good condition,
truncated elliptical for records with some wear (to avoid the bottom of the
groove) and conical truncated for well-worn records.  Standard conical are
not really useful for anything except maybe vertical-cut, they are the
noisiest, but are the easiest and cheapest to make thus most readily
available.

It doesn't matter two hoots WHAT program to use to edit, a wave editor is a
wave editor, period.  Some programs have features which make it easier to
use plugins, such as daisy-chaining in series, and selected preview, that's
why I mentioned Sound Forge in the Facebook forum.  Nero and most other
programs do NOT have selectable preview and daisy-chaining.  For manual
declicking a pencil is nice, also you can copy and paste over the pieces
before and after the click, preserving crossover.  This is good for heavy
"thunks."  Just cutting out the click and affecting timing seems
unnecessary, though that's the old tape method, that R.T. still used on the
computer.

Follow the advice given here on noise reduction (which is NOT the same
advice as for wave editing, these are two different things)  Find the NR
program you want, then find the wave editor that can best use that plugin.
Standalone NR programs also include editors, but they may not be as friendly
as dedicated editors.

LP Noise reduction works for 78s.  The click width needs to be set wider
(higher milliseconds) and the sensitivity to be set LOWER.  If available the
profile should be set for softer leading edge, which both affects how the
program detects the click, and where the replacement info for the sound
removed due to the click starts.  For Sound Forge declick profile 6
consistently works best.

NR is not as effective for noisy tapes, possibly because the noise is
"Muddier" - less defined.

For declicking I use SF or Cooledit's builtin, for NR AND EQ I prefer
Voxengo ReDuNoise and Voxengo CurveEQ.  I seem to be the only person on the
planet to use these, despite the fact that they work damn well.  You HAVE to
use noise reduction intelligently, don't listen to the noise, but listen to
the MUSIC while adjusting the reduction.  Make sure nothing is lost in
ambience or highs, better some noise than a dead, muffled room.

..  Steve Williams  ..
  
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 10:05:43 +0200
From: "Andrew Evans" <andrew.evans at sfr.fr>
Subject: Re: [78-L] editing 78 files.. (leonard schwartz)
To: <78-l at klickitat.78online.com>
Message-ID: <JFELJBDCOFNOFDEHIEPMGEKDIFAA.andrew.evans at sfr.fr>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="US-ASCII"

It depends what you mean by "edit", Lenny, i.e. how much you want to
achieve.

An all-purpose editor will allow you to dub to a *.wav file to hard disk,
trim the non-music start and end of your dubbed file and redraw the wave
form by hand to decerealise it (As John R T Davies used to say, i.e. erase
snap, crackle and pop); I have been using GoldWave for ten years but I chose
it only because CoolEdit was no longer available at a sensible price. I've
since discovered Wave Repair, a shareware program written by Clive Backham
which was designed for LPs but works perfectly well with 78s. That costs
only 30 dollars. In particular it has a feature allowing you to take a
fingerprint of surface noise from the run-in or run-out grooves and remove
that fingerprint only from the whole file. GoldWave has a whole load of
features which appear to have no relevance to 78 restoration and which I've
never explored.

For industrial-strength decerealisation you should look at Click Repair by
Brian Davies, an Australian mathematician with an interest in sound
restoration. That was also written for LP restoration but is very useful
with 78s. It too is shareware.  Dr Davies's webpage on restoration is as
good a brief introduction to the principles of restoration as youy will
find.  He has also written a freeware equaliser which will remove the RIAA
equalisation applied automatically by your amplifier and restore the
original equalisation curve applied by the recording studio (if you happen
to know what it was).

You can find URLs for all these first hit with Google.

YWIA
Andrew in Luxembourg




On 4/9/2012 10:50 AM, leonard schwartz wrote:
> hi
> so your saying a diamond point isnt very good?
>
>
>> i have the following specs for my 78 needle..tip material...diamind...tip
radius..3 mil..tracking force 1-3 grams....someone if i have the proper
>> needle i wouldent have to worry anout the editing? stuff..
>>
>> lenny
>>